The claim that Finland is home to the happiest people on Earth may seem distant—almost laughable—on a day like today. The shortest day of the year is rapidly approaching, and outside, an unyielding darkness has swallowed the landscape. It’s a deep, pitch-black void, broken only by the occasional passing headlights. To add insult to injury, rain lashes against the windshield, turning the roads into slick ribbons of treachery. I grip the steering wheel a little tighter, eyes darting to the sides of the road, staying vigilant for moose and deer that might step out of the gloom. But then again, what am I really complaining about? Here I am, cocooned in the comfort of a brand-new car, fresh tires gripping the wet pavement, heading toward Hanko. A town known for its sun-soaked summer days, but today, it promises something entirely different—something uniquely magical. Or that’s at least what I hope for.
Hanko, Finland’s southernmost city, has a history as layered as the coastal rocks that line its shores. Over 150 years ago, a harbor was built, and the rumbling of a railroad followed. What once was a barren stretch of land soon blossomed into a vibrant city, its streets bustling with life. At the turn of the 19th century, Hanko became a playground for Russia’s and Sweden’s elite—those who sought healing seawater and breathtaking coastal vistas. It became Finland’s Riviera, a glamorous retreat for those who understood the art of relaxation. But as history often does, war altered its trajectory. The Winter War of 1945 razed much of its former splendor, including its beloved spa building. Yet, even amid the rubble, Hanko’s spirit endured. The Casino and its neighboring villas stood firm, like resilient sentinels, refusing to bow to the tides of history.
The decades after the war were quieter, but slowly, Hanko began to regain its luster. By 2017, the Regatta Spa was reborn, a modern symbol of the city’s resilience and renewal. And now, with nearly 150 kilometers of winding roads behind me, the thought of soaking in its restorative waters is more tempting than ever.
This is my first visit to the Regatta Spa, and anticipation hums through my veins. Could this be one of Finland’s finest spas? Could it rival the best the country has to offer? During the summer, the spa is a private sanctuary, exclusive to hotel guests and members, with memberships priced at a staggering EUR 15,000. Yet, outside peak season, it opens its doors to the public, offering an opportunity to experience its serenity.
The spa is perched on a small cape, elevated slightly above sea level. It’s part of a larger complex that includes three Regatta Suites and an architectural gem—a Jugend-style building designed by Lars Sonck. Today, the weather does nothing to showcase the full beauty of the place. The clouds are heavy, brooding, and the dull light filters in like a soft shroud. But I can still feel the potential, the quiet grandeur that stands waiting for the sun to return.
Inside, the atmosphere is a delicate dance between ancient luxury and modern elegance. From the reception area, a glass wall gives an uninterrupted view of the spa’s heart. The travertine walls, with their warm, earthy tones, echo the ancient Roman baths, exuding an air of timelessness. The soft lighting bathes the space in a soothing glow, setting the stage for a truly indulgent experience. As I walk past the changing room and toward the main pool, a sense of anticipation builds within me. I imagine the 25-meter-long pool stretching seamlessly into the horizon, as if the water and the sea could become one on a bright, sunlit day. I step in, only to be greeted by a sharp, almost jarring chill. At 27°C, the water is perfect for laps but leaves little room for the warmth of a true spa experience.
Determined to find solace, I make my way to the therapeutic pool, convinced this will be my sanctuary. The whirlpools and hydromassage jets beckon, but alas, the water is just as cold—31°C, not nearly warm enough to melt away the stresses of the world. And as if the universe wants to test my patience, a group of children with their mothers enters, their laughter and splashing turning the once tranquil space into something closer to chaos. My last hope lies in the steam sauna, a place of quiet refuge, where I can finally lose myself in the soothing embrace of heat and steam.
But even here, serenity proves elusive. Outside the steam sauna, there’s the Avantopool, a frigid plunge pool, a brutal, invigorating chill that athletes use to revive their muscles. A part of me longs to dive in, feel the shock of it against my skin, but another part resists, craving the warmth that has thus far eluded me.
As I begin the long drive home, I reflect on the experience. The Regatta Spa is undeniably beautiful, and its EUR 8 million investment is reflected in the luxurious design and tranquil setting. Yet, the cold waters and overcrowded spaces have prevented it from fulfilling its full potential. Perhaps, in summer, when the skies are clear and the sun dances over the sea, the spa will reveal its true magic. I can easily imagine myself lounging by the pool, a refreshing drink in hand, as the soft sound of the waves mingles with the hum of relaxed conversation. That is the image I will hold onto—the idealized version of Hanko, where beauty and tranquility collide.